Dave Evans's Profile
Area of responsibility
Instructor/Coach, Climbing and Mountaineering
Significant outdoor qualifications
Area of work at Plas y Brenin
Main areas of work involve delivery on all climbing and mountaineering NGB award courses, coaching at all levels on all recreational climbing and mountaineering courses. I am a member of the BMC FUNdamentals steering committee and deliver all of these workshops. I am also sitting on the BMC technical committee.
In the last few years I have been involved in most areas of climbing, so a few highlights would include;
- Strawberries, E7 6b, Tremadog (Headpoint)
- Berlin Wall, E8 6c, Nesscliffe (Headpoint)
- The Cad, E6 6a, Gogarth (On sight)
- Nosferatu,E6 6b, Burbage South (Flash)
- Raindogs, F8a, Malham (Redpoint)
- Lou Ferrino, V10, Parisella's Cave
- Instint Salvatge, F7b+, Tres Ponts Catalunya (Onsight)
- Dolofright, 5.11d R, Dolomite Tower, Utah
- Sisyphus, 5.11 R, Zeus Tower, Canyonlands, Utah
- North West Face Regular Route, Half Dome, Yosemite (VI,5.10,A1) in 16 hours
- Central Buttress, VI,7, Beinn Eighe
- Poco Loco, VII,7, Church Door Buttress, Glen Coe
- Darth Vadar, VII,8, Ben Nevis
- East Face Direct Direct, VII,8, Stob Coire Nan Lochan
- Central Icefall Direct VI,6, Llanberis Pass
- Black Cleft, VII,7, Clogwyn D'ur Arddu
- Flanders, VI,7, Black Ladders
With winter climbing it often seems to be the failures that live longest in the memory, and my two nemesis routes, which at some point I will have to go back to are: Unicorn(VIII,8) in Stob Coire Nan Lochan, which I managed to get to the top of the first pitch of three years ago just before it went dark after the fight of my life, but then abseiled off. Also Blenderhead(VII,8) on Clogwyn Ddu which I attempted as my first route of the season 2 years ago, and fell off with both tools literally on the edge of the ledge at the end, and went a really long way!
- North Face of the Eiger, ED2, Switzerland (2011)
- Too Late to say I'm Sorry, ED2, Aiguille Verte, Chamonix, (2010)
- Ginat Route, North Face Les Droites, ED1, Chamonix, (2009)
The failures also stay long in the memory with Alpine climbing and my greatest Alpine epic remains a retreat from fairly near the top of the Matterhorn North Face, which is famed for poor rock and bad protection; A character building experience!
Chamonix to Zermatt Haute route in 2.5 days; I love the way ski's allow you to travel a really long way through the mountains in a really short time when you are fit and acclimatised.
Skiing off the summit of the Aiguille D'Argentiere was another definite highlight.
Without doubt my favourite climbing area is the American desert, primarily the cracks and towers surrounding the town of Moab in Utah. The main reason for this is the unique nature of the climbing which is really unlike anything we have in Europe. The majority of the climbing involves some kind of Crack or Chimneying, due to the almost unbelievably blank nature of the rock away from the crack features. There is never any question of which line to follow in Utah, you just find a crack line that looks cool, and try and get up it!
A perfect line, whether it's 2 metres long on a boulder problem or 1200 metres on an Alpine face.
I am off to the East Coast of America in May, with a vague plan to climb around the Adirondack mountains in Vermont, hopefully on Mount Washington which is famous in the USA for having "Scottish" weather, and possibly the Shawangunks. This is all soon after our usual two months in Scotland which seems to be shaping up nicely conditions wise at the moment too!