01690 720214

Winter Protection

By Dave Evans


For most of us in winter climbing runners and good belays shouldn't just be a luxury! A lot gets said about Ice screws and Abalakovs but what about making our conventional rock gear better.


Tip One

Winter Protection

Most committed winter climbers have a winter rack i.e. nuts and hexes they don.t mind hammering in a bit to help it bite in snowy and verglassed cracks. Nuts etc. are often used in preference to cams as these may often slip out when loaded or prize off flakes only frozen in place.


Tip Two

Long extenders offer less drag on those wandering pitches and will stop your valuable protection being pulled out. To be honest if you come off you won.t notice the difference between a Mamba and a 4 ft sling!


Tip Three

If you get a sling on a shallow spike, put a long draw on it and cement it down with snow. There will be more chance of it staying on.


Tip Four

Remember the principles of backing up so so belays...incorporate a bucket seat or get well braced. Bury your axes in an appropriate way to reinforce the anchors, or get them in the ice or turf. Protect the belay with an early runner and use an appropriate dynamic method of belaying to reduce impact force in case of a fall.


Tip Five

Winter Protection

Get used to working with your gloves on at all times, and be as efficient as you can. Oh, and don`t climb underneath others on ice routes! No helmet`s big enough!!




Comments



Got A Date Available - Need An Adventure To Match?

Find out what's going on at the National Mountain Sports Centre between any date range on this handy new search page



Adventure Sport
Summer Camps (Age 12-17)

Summmer Camps For Young People Aged 12-17Young climbers, mountaineers, paddlers and mtb riders aged 12-17. Develop your outdoor skills with our top coaches on one of our residential summer camps.


ENVIRONMENT SYMPOSIUM FOR MOUNTAIN LEADERS

Environment Symposium For Mountain LeadersThe 2017 Plas y Brenin Environment Symposium for Mountain Leaders and Mountaineering Instructors wil....



FAST TRACK INSTRUCTOR SCHEME
OPEN DAY

Fast Track Instructor Scheme<br/>Open DayJoin us for a free information day on 18th September and find out how the Fast Track Instructor Sche....



SCOTLAND COURSES 2018

Scotland Courses 2018Just a reminder that our Scotland 2018 course dates are now live. So if you are looking to gain more....



PEAK PERFORMANCE FOR PLAS Y BRENIN PADDLING TEAM

Peak Performance For Plas y Brenin Paddling TeamWe are delighted to announce that we've launched an exciting new partnership with kayak clothing man....



BMC WOMEN OUTDOORS WEEK 5-15 AUG 2017

BMC Women Outdoors Week 5-15 Aug 2017Come and get active for the BMC's Women Outdoors Week here at Plas y Brenin. We have talks, activiti....



What's On In Our bar?

Our friendly and lively bar is open to the public. From talks and lectures to film nights and live music, there's always something going on. Find out what's coming up next here



Adventure Sport
Summer Camps (Age 12-17)

Summmer Camps For Young People Aged 12-17Young climbers, mountaineers, paddlers and mtb riders aged 12-17. Develop your outdoor skills with our top coaches on one of our residential summer camps.


Enhanced Learning Credits

Enhanced Learning CreditsThe Enhanced Learning Credit Administration Service offers funding for armed forces personnel. Plas y Brenin is able to accept ELCAS funding for a few specific non residential courses.




Weather Forecast, Tides and Surf Conditions

Find out what the weather's doing in North Wales over the next five days.



Adventure Map


Working alongside UCLan
to educate
outdoor professionals

University Of Central LancashireFind out how we are working with one of the country's top universities to develop lasting careers in the outdoors.